Thursday, July 15, 2010
Thai Massage for Dummies
As we might continue to place upon ourselves the stresses on daily basis, the nurturing hands of masseuses would be an extraordinary method to sooth your senses and free the tension within the body. Thai massage as one of the wide variety of massages, is renowned for the healing treatments for mind and body which has been proved for over years.
Thai massage originated in India then made its way to Thailand through the transmission of Buddhism. This exhilarating treatment has been traditionally practiced by the monks to induce a calming effect on the minds as it gives relaxation with meditative quality. Thai massage bases its treatments on numerous practices, namely Chinese acupuncture, Ayurveda and Yoga; this treatment bases its principles on maintaining the flow of circulation in the body by focusing on the ten invisible energy lines called Sen. According to Mr. Lex Red, the teacher of Chang Daeng Thai massage school, it is vital to remove any blockages along these energy lines to enhance a smooth flow of blood circulation and energy throughout the human body system.
Among the plethora massages that exist, none intrigued me as much as Thai massage. Therefore, I had been contemplating on the idea of experiencing this form of heavenly practice on one of the last days of this In Search of Chiang Mai trip. Chang Daeng Thai massage was recommended by our guesthouse host, Aunty Sin, a convenient place just fifteen minutes away from our guesthouse.
They offer several types of massage namely Thai, foot, and oil massage. The use of oil is not essential in the traditional Thai massage yet nowadays, it is acceptable to blend the use of oil in the modern Thai massage. The appliance of oil will enhance numerous benefits, i.e. softens the skin, nourishes the skin, gets rid of dry spots on your skin, and eliminates toxins from your body. The relaxation process is enhanced with the choice of being massaged on a paddled floor mattress or bed. Mr. Lex Red distinguished between those two; the first is designed for a stronger pressure massage while the latter is designed for the light or medium. Another characteristic of Thai massage is that it does not require the removal of clothes as an authentic loose fitted clothing will be loaned - to facilitate comfort during massage.
The massage begins on the right leg and ends on the left, each spanning 25 minutes. Followed by a hand massage for 10 to 15 minutes and then back massage for another 20 minutes. The final 10 to 15 minutes is spent massaging the head. Each Thai massage movement also incorporates slow stretching movements which are carried out continuously to ensure a release of tension in the body, thus leading to a complete relaxation and soul rejuvenation.
Some of the techniques are very much feels like Yoga; the practitioner will manipulate the client into different yoga positions throughout the session. It gets painful on each of the tense areas. In my case, it was around my leg: I could not help but scream when the thumb of the masseuse pressed my nervous muscle in order to release the blocked energy along the Sen lines. With that said, the massage did relief the tension in my legs, and my body as a whole – this becoming a testament to Thai massage’s effectiveness. For only 450 baht (RM 45), one can experience two full hours worth of Thai massage, which acts as a very effective form of stress relief. A refreshed spirit, calmness, balanced nervous system and an increased energy are some of the tremendous benefits that can be reaped from the overwhelming bodywork experience of Thai massage.
In Chiang Mai, you can stumble across Thai massage parlours at almost every corner, however not all of them are equally professional. The original Thai massage, involves many specific steps, ability to know specific parts of the human's body and also a lot of experience. Therefore, it is vital to try to find a masseuse who knows how to do the real Thai massage in order to reap the full benefits of this uniquely Thai experience.
A Delight for the Tight-Fisted
There is only one word that can aptly describe the shopping in Chiang Mai- ridiculous.
Roads and rows of souvenirs and knick-knacks line street after street, enticing one to pursue the time-consuming sport of shopping. Vibrant colours of token t-shirts and traditional sarongs flash past wandering eyes while sounds of tourists bargaining for lower prices in broken Thai fill the air. Welcome to Chiang Mai, land of dirt cheap prices and wealthy wallets.
Here one can seem to waste away thousands, only to come back and see that their amount of shopping is directly disproportionate to the amount spent (I meant this in a good way); not to mention, the quality of goods makes the money spent all the more worth it.
Shopping in Chiang Mai is till today very much traditional; shopping malls not having taken over the presence of the markets, unlike most other tourist destinations. In fact, there are only 2 shopping malls within the city, which are mostly favoured by the local students in search of some ‘air-conditioned’ respite from the blistering heat. Three of the most prominent markets here are the Night Bazaar, the Sunday Market and Warorot (Kad Luang) Market. Locals are obviously sold goods at cheaper prices as compared to foreigners, but prices are not highly marked up excessively for tourists, thereby not denting wallets much.
In analysing the shopping on offer, the writer has come up with three levels of identifying the goods sold. First, the ubiquitous t-shirts, key chains, magnets are the usual fare one can expect to find anywhere in the world, with the name of the particular city and country branded onto it. Second, the unique things Chiang Mai has to offer, which sometimes requires a bit of searching and looking below the surface, is not always obvious to the skimming eye; perhaps not always cultural but always creatively unique. Third, the things that belong to no particular region, currently in high demand, are modern artefacts that have no particular origin, homogenous commodities local to none, yet global to everyone such as paisley bags and hair bands.
The first market of interest was the Night Bazaar. Located in an upscale tourist area, the entire shopping compound is almost endless. Stall after stall offers enticing products like brass bracelets, flower shaped candles in lacquer boxes as well as traditional Thai silk and menswear. Bargaining here is a must-do, because each vendor will convince you that he is offering you a ‘special price’, ‘just for you’ which no one else has had the opportunity of being offered. Obviously, the price initially offered is a highly marked up price, therefore the best tip is to go as low as one can go, attaining a happy balance with the seller somewhere in between. There is one particular market situated within the Bazaar, where most of the stuff being sold outside can be found and bought at wholesale prices.
There is also a food court where dinner can be purchased using the coupon system. As such, it’s a good idea to get to the Bazaar early (it opens at around 7pm) to avoid rush hour and sweaty fellow shoppers. Another idea would be that since the Bazaar is on every night, and is just as crowded, any purposeful shopping that needs to be done could be done on Sundays when the rush is diverted to the Sunday market.
The Sunday Market is perhaps the most important market in Chiang Mai, where both locals and tourists come out in throngs to simply shop. Beginning at Rachadamneon Road and stretching on for almost five kilometers. The only way to properly describe this market is epic. Literally everything and anything is sold here, from bees to stools shaped as cans to green pots that grow grass all over themselves. It may sound a bit nonsensical at this point, but one really must experience this extravaganza for themselves. The writer herself is a self-proclaimed connoisseur of markets, but in terms of the sheer awesomeness - for the lack of a better word - this market takes the cake. Case in point – mobile vans functioning as coffee bars. Not weird enough? Throw in a TV blaring Thai entertainment in the same van.
As the entire market rests on two sides of a lane, the centre of the road functions as an island for performers to showcase their talents. Men and women, young and old, all perform for the walking public, with hats and musical cases open for any hands generous enough to contribute. Another extremely interesting concept is the amount of support the market gets. Along the entire stretch, there are a number of temples which for this one night (roads are cordoned off too) open up their premises to let sellers in, to sell their wares. Many sectors are even divided into food, clothes and such.
Yet another interesting observation is how the vendors all display their identification tag, which formalizes the entire night market process, not only preventing hawkers from unfairly poaching on potential customers from the licensed sellers, but also allowing the sellers to formalize the sale of their goods. Some vendors even wear a uniform. A word of caution though- bargaining as a true skill is really put to the test here, as vendors rarely refuse to mark down exorbitant prices.
The third market, where again, everything can be found, is the Warorot Market. Open during the day and favoured by the locals, its the busiest market where food, flowers and even fowl can be found in true, market style; brushing against tons of sweaty shoppers, bothered by the heat and sticky from the grime and grease of the atmosphere.
So what’s good for tourists to buy? Apart from the first and second levels of shopping described above, there are traditional Thai music CDs, hair pins with beautiful exotic designs, organic skincare brands (on the streets yes!), hand-painted cards with traditional motifs, silver jewelry, and fairy lights in inventive shapes. Keep an eye out especially for brass jewelry as it is unique to Chiang Mai together with cheap traditional Thai original art. Temple ornaments are also easily available and make unique home décor.
One stall even sells clothes for dogs at the Sunday Market while another sells bikinis, all in one place. An interesting situation to look out for in these markets is also how the vendors combine the pursuit of entertainment with business where many vendors have their own portable DVD players or laptops which they use when not attending to a customer, a trait not quite common elsewhere. It is always an experience to eat local street food, such as ‘ancient ice-cream’ or taro puffs. Dinner at markets, as written above, is easily available, and at relatively cheap prices.
All together, shopping in Chiang Mai is an experience like in no other place, maybe not even Bangkok. Just make sure you plan your trip to include a Sunday.
Friends Without Borders
Friends without Borders is an international NGO that focuses on promoting Human Rights and educating people about the issues related to indigenous communities, migrant workers and refugees. For instance, the people who they work with in Chiang Mai, Thailand are mostly Burmese refugees. These refugees risk their lives coming to Thailand in search of a better life, which their country’s authoritarian government cannot provide. These people who flee political violence are vulnerable to be exploited by agents, traffickers, on the way to Chiang Mai, and upon arriving at their destination.
Pin, the coordinator of the organization, explained to us a variety of dangers that both adult and children refugees face. The organization works to educate migrants about the rights they are entitled to, and also raises awareness about the plight of the refugees among the general Thai public. Apart from written publications and conferences, they also produce short films which provide a more visual account of their cause.
Hongsa’s School Bag (2009), produced by Th’blay Paw tells the story about an 11-year old boy of the Mon ethnicity who was born in Thailand. Hongsa lives with his parents who are migrant workers in Thailand. He receives the opportunity to attend a Thai special class for migrant children. He also yearns for a new school bag. In addition, he faces different types of pressure with the hope of gaining access to education and therefore, to a better quality of living. This film successfully shows what is at stake for migrant adults and children in Thailand.
There are humanitarian efforts in Thailand that allow children to attend Thai schools upon completion of a special course that teaches them Thai. However, children still face trouble in integrating themselves with the local children. Burmese children are often told not to mix with the Thais in fear of offending them and getting deported. At the same time, they are also misunderstood by the Thai society which segregates the two groups of children. Burmese children are also vulnerable to extortion, physical and sexual abuse. Pin explained that some girls or boys who are abducted become victims of human trafficking. Boys are sold to work at sea, while girls are raped and abandoned or forced into prostitution.
Mon people are Burmese who live along the Thai border. There are an estimated number of 3 million migrant workers in Thailand from Burma. Based on the media monitoring project that the NGO has conducted, Pin explained that mainstream media does not portray migrants in a favourable light. The media also uses migrants as a scapegoat of violent crime during the recent political struggle. Hence the migrants are usually misunderstood by society.
The Thai government requires them to obtain documentation. However, the procedures of applying for legal documents can be very difficult to access and expensive. Registration only allows them to be a temporary resident for 4 years. The reality is that they extend their stay beyond that permitted period. Hence, these Burmese migrant workers, both documented and undocumented, face risks of deportation or detention. Also, their job opportunities are nowhere near promising, only being allowed to take up jobs that locals are unwilling to do. In addition, they continue to risk deportation by their employers for misbehavior or improper conduct.
Pin explained that workers are paid less and do not always live in comfortable conditions. She said that Thailand seems to appreciate their labour as a means of boosting their economy, yet do not want to accommodate their family. Migrants of Mon ethnicity flee from political violence as a family instead of moving individually (individual migration). Children who are born in Thailand do not obtain proper documents, which make it difficult for them to gain access to education and health care. They constantly live in fear from deportation. If an adult gets caught and deported, this effectively separates the parent from the child. Upon being sent to the border, migrants are charged a fee by human traffickers to be sent back to Thailand. Hence they slip into debt again.
Migrants are an exploited people. It is therefore crucial that their rights are fought for.
Mapping Migrants
The one of the paradoxes of the era of globalization always has to do with borders: the lines that separate states are fading, while at the same time every state tries to strengthen their border protection. This phenomenon introduces migrant workers as one of the priorities of every state, from undocumented workers to the problem of unemployment rate.
As a country that borders the unstable state of Myanmar, Thailand faces these problems on a regular basis. The lack a proper local political system and the close proximity bring a hurl of migrant workers to the state, mostly from Myanmar, Cambodia and Laos. Their statuses as an illegal workers pull them away from any kind of protection from the state. Cases of violence are increasing, but nothing can be done. The state does not deem them visible.
In 2003, the government of Thailand and Myanmar signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to legalize the flow of migrants. It will take five years to set up a properly agreed-upon system, but the framework of a system can already be seen. However, at the same time the number of cases of discrimination against migrant workers still keeps on increasing; the system is new, and the discrimination is ongoing. A solution is still yet to be found.
The new system offers the chance for migrant workers to obtain temporary work permit to be a legal worker in Thailand. However, Jackie Pollock, the founder of MAP (Migrant Assistance Programme) believes that the system is still very much flawed, "the cost of obtaining work permit is very high--equal to six months of salary, actually. And the status is very temporary. Very," Pollock said.
MAP is a Non-Governmental Organization aimed to protect the Burmese workers in Thailand. It was established in 1996, a time when migrant workers were not recognized. The organization provides materials about migrants, as well as provides emergency housing for the workers.
Asked about the experience of fighting for migrant workers, Pollock states that it has many challenges and the process moves slowly. One of the main issues that MAP tackles is violence against women. The organization offer trainings for women, including one that talks about the nature of the Thai law. However, there are still a very small number of women taking their cases into legal support and the knowledge is still very limited.
"At the very least," Pollock said, "women now realize that they have a supporting community."
Labour Rights is another main issue that MAP is grappling with. Pollock states that in many cases, migrant workers would obtain merely 10% to 20% of what they are financially accounted for. Nowadays, the cases are getting more complicated. The employer would either keep the workers' documents or declare bankruptcy in order to get away from their legal obligation.
"You have to be a lot smarter nowadays. Things are not as simple as before." Pollock said.
The working permit process, just newly announced, is a slow one. There are approximately one million workers still in the process of getting the permit, and another 2 million not obtaining it. The working permit itself is provided for no longer than two years. The new status on the system poses a challenge for everyone. The government is still learning it, the workers are still semi-invisible, and the violence cases still exist.
It seems that the change is moving slowly in every aspect of the process.
As a former activist of a women's rights organization called Empower, Jackie Pollock emphasized on the fact that the government does not recognize domestic workers as 'workers'. Their status is invisible in the law, as if law is only applicable in the public world outside the homes.
"But then again," she added, "most part of the world does not recognize them. This is a global issue."
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
EMPOWERing Sex, EMPOWERing Women
There is a bar that sits on a street, conspicuously enticing with its bright lights, an open air concept and a plaque that reads “Can Do Bar”; it not only serves drinks to its customers but also sex. This is a place many sex workers call home, while simultaneously becoming the setting for an organisation that sets to tell the story and struggle of sex workers in Chiang Mai. Owned by EMPOWER (Education Means Protection of Women Engaged in Re-creation), a sex worker organisation, it was first established as an informal gathering of sex workers in Bangkok, where friends would exchange and discuss ideas about life and love, and learn foreign languages to better understand the needs and wants of customers they deal with on a daily basis. What originally started with a humble beginning, is now a thriving non-profit group that has offices across Thailand. Though the organisation was in itself an accidental appropriation, its existence in Thailand’s society is not. Thailand’s sex work industry is a large and booming one, and for it to not be protected legally and formally would seem absurd. However, this is exactly the case.
EMPOWER is owned by, run by, and protects sex workers. Unlike other non-profits that are mostly headed by those who are isolated from the lived experiences of what they are fighting for, women of EMPOWER are those who have gone through the abuses of the such work; this then makes them the best people to advocate for the protection of sex work and sex workers alike. Liz, the translator and coordinator of the session, explains that EMPOWER wants to be the centre in which sex workers can come and feel like they are part of a community. Apart from the bar (which employs two full time bar workers, and about 20 or so sex workers), EMPOWER also provides language courses, computer and typing classes, as well as sex education. The organisation has an outreach program to increase awareness about sex work, sex workers and the health and safety issues within the community. EMPOWER is also opening a sex workers’ museum to educate the public about the history of sex work in Chiang Mai; clearly, to EMPOWER, benefits should not only be confined to the workers, but also to the wider public who may have forgotten the historical significance of this form of work. Therefore educating them about it would emancipate them in some way from the reality in which they live.
The most prominent struggle sex workers face is the lack of legal protection that comes with engaging in such an employment. The government does not recognize sex work, and so those who work within the industry get little to no protection. Even so, Liz says that there are informal standards that sex work and workers are meant to adhere to; many of these are disadvantageous to the workers, and only profit the employers. Thus as a working example, the Can Do bar, established in 2006, runs by a set of standards that are beneficial to workers, employers and customers alike.
Through this, EMPOWER hopes that more bars emulate these standards and so will make sex work more protected sans legislation. Of course in the long run, EMPOWER would like to see the equal treatment and protection of sex workers across Thailand, but this hope is for the indefinite future; for now, EMPOWER is practical in its attempts to safeguard the interests of its people through its efforts that teach how to survive and work without threats.
Diary Entry: Day 6
Written by: Anthea Haryoko.
I’m not gonna lie. I dreaded the prospect of getting up this morning. Four places to visit, up at 8 am, back at 8 pm. Our busy schedules with keeping up with the blog didn’t help either and I even contemplated faking a ‘sicky’ to get out of it, but I pushed those demons out of my head as we headed to our first NGO.
We pulled up to Friends Without Borders, away from the tourist traffic. The organization utilizes main stream media outlets to spotlight the issues of refugees in Thailand. I thought the organization was relevant to many of us, since many of us come from Communications backgrounds and that main stream media holds the ability to reach out to a vast audience including many of the youth who have the potential to play a vital role in shaping social perceptions of refugees in the country. We were shown a touching film produced by FWB, about a Burmese refugee boy, Hongsa’s School Bag, whose dream of saving up for a school bag was beyond his grasp due to his stigmatized status in Thailand. My mere whims of wanting to get more sleep this morning were now so petty in light of his story.
After the ritual group photo in front of the FWB building, we headed to Wat U-Mong, a temple dug into the ground and of sprirtual reflections. At first glance it seemed an eerie place, orange cloth with writing were wrapped around seemingly random trees that lined the road. Later I found out that the writings held words of wisdom and deep inner reflections. We wandered about, feeding the cat fish with bread rolls which Jo, our student guide, kindly shared. Pigeons flocked to Cyren, our resident ‘bird-man’ and the man with the ice cream cart provided us much relief from the day’s humidity.
Lunch was an interesting experience and I think it’s worth appreciating local eating places, away from food made palatable to tourists. To get a sense of Thai food, one needs to eat where the Thai’s eat. And so Juree, our very outgoing student guide, led us to a popular eatery mainly frequented by many university students. She also introduced us to the Thai version of ‘Cin-Cau’. It’s interesting to note the many different countries around Asia have their own twist of the jelly drink. Thai ‘Cin-Cau’ adds evaporated milk to the black jelly and sweet syrup. Its popularity among our group was enough to say it was pretty darn good.
MAP was next on the list, an NGO who helps in the legal aspects of migrants workers. One of its aims is to bring justice to migrants who have been wronged, as well as to advocate their legal status in Thailand since many are forced to find their way illegally into Thailand. MAP also allows a space away from the fear and isolation experienced as a refugee, and into an area where they are able to discuss their feelings and experiences among other migrants across many ethnicities
EMPOWER was a great organization to visit and personally had the most effect on my perceptions of sex workers. As students who have explored the sex industry, we tend to look upon them with pity, as victims of exploitation and slavery. Sure there are many places where this may be the case, but EMPOWER was not one of them. I had noticed that the girls who worked there were very confident about themselves. They want to work in the sex industry by choice and they also know their rights as sex workers. They were a very outgoing bunch, teasing us about how beautiful they were and were quite cheeky about the trade. The bar was a wonderful place of learning and empowerment; education of safe sex practices and essential urban life skills. The stripper poles in the bar were also a hit among us. It made sex seem fun, with the knowledge of safe sex practices at the same time.
Last but not least, to tie up the day, dinner was held at a popular steak house and buffet. Jo chose the place this time. I also noted the many university students who frequented the eatery, which again like lunch, was a good experience to get a glimpse of Chiang Mai’s student culture that our student guides are also part of. A mellow atmosphere with a small live band (in Thai of course) allowed us to unwind from the long day, finally getting us away from the tourist circus, today we experienced a small window of Chiang Mai’s students culture, which we were fortunate to have glimpsed.