Diary Entry: Day 7

Written By: Shafira Sahara.

Do you know how the beginning of something always feels so long and the end always too fast?

Signing up on this latest 'In Search of...' Trip, we were cleverly given seven days to spend in Chiang Mai. Today is day seven. I opened my eyes this morning thinking "where has day one to six gone?"

However I did not think for long. At 11 am we all met at the guest house lobby to have our final practice for the cultural performance. At first, the Saman group started. Our pace was growing faster and faster as our confidence increased. I was smiling proudly until I heard Cici and Bats whacking each other during the windmill segment. Everything is fine though. We knew the consequences when we agree to do this Acehnese dance.

The result of keen Bhangra practice for the last two weeks

  

Afterwards, the Bhangra group practiced. When the Indian music started playing everybody jumped around. It's the first time the Bhangra group had practiced with the music on, so their pace was increasing as well. A fan was highly required then because the weather was burning hot. In fact, some of us actually dominated the fan by sitting right at the front of it. Sweat was dripping like the impending rain.

After the practices, some of us went to lunch. It was quite funny though, because we all went mad about the food. There was a kind of nostalgic taste to the sweet and sour Tom Yam, the deep fried crispy garlic fish and even to the mouth-watering Thai Ice Tea, shanom. It might be the fact that we were extremely hungry; or the fact that this taste would be the last one we have in this beautiful city.

The beauty of the city and the food faded when we got back to our guest house. Reality kicked in. We had tons of work to do. Most of us spent the day working; writing our pieces, editing our videos and choosing photos to go with the articles.

The clock struck six and our lut dengs were ready to take us to our farewell dinner. All of us were dressed more culturally than when we attended the cultural dinner. On the one hand, the Bhangra dancers were wearing long scarves around their necks and everything was very colorful and alive. On the other hand, the Saman dancers were dressed in black shirts and dark pants with colorful sarongs. The leader of the pack, Dr. Yeoh, was wearing a Batik shirt. Although we had rushed to reach our destination in order to welcome our guests, it turned out to be an unspoken rule in Thailand for guests to arrive an hour after the invitation. In complete excitement with pre-performance nerves we waited.

 A collage of people that this year's episode of In Search Of brought together

The guests started to come, one by one. The first to arrive were from EMPOWER--which is understandable since they work just across the street from the restaurant. After that, a steady flow of guests continued to arrive and the show began.

Hosted by our student guide Jutha Srivatananukulkit and our very own Cyren Wong, the programme was packed. It started with a performance from the student guides, a Thai dance. This was followed by an energetic Bhangra performance by Monash students. After that, a series of performances lighted the stage, including a Taylor Swift rendition by Juree, the slapping performance of Saman dance, a lady-boy dance performance by Cyren and Juree and two photo slide presentation by Joe and Dr. Yeoh.

Rapid, intricate movements of Saman

Before the end of the night, Dr. Yeoh grabbed the microphone and went up to the front of the stage. As much as we hoped for him to do a rendition of AC/DC or Simon and Garfunkel, he was there for a speech. He emphasized the importance of opening our hearts and minds, in that it would be the key to our understanding things beyond our comfort zone. He also emphasized the need for us to be careful because these study trips can change our lives.

 Dr. Yeoh switching gear from his usual wittiness to a wise old man

We wrapped up the night with a performance of Dikir Barat, a traditional Malaysian dance. In the dance, everyone sang a couple of verses and chants while we moved in synchronized movements. The air, then and there, felt like it belonged to us. The past seven days that we've spent together seems to have been both long and gone too fast all at the same time. It's long because every day was productive. Even on a free day like day seven, we woke up early for practices and breakfast. But it was also short because there were still places to see, things to do. The days passed-by too fast and we were at the end already.

We came on this trip smuggling different cultural background into one tuk tuk (or maybe more than just one tuk tuk in this case). We met new friends, embraced new cultures and maybe even found a new dance partner. We've eaten worms, gotten sick, did not sleep and made our own experiences. We laughed a lot and cried a bit. Yes, we made our own experiences and loved them.

As we finished the Dikir Barat, we sang the famous song Rasa Sayang. And I really felt it. And I think everyone felt it as well. The love. The Rasa Sayang.

 Weiyan and Sze Jia expressing their Rasa Sayang to our pathfinder

This has been a great trip, overall. Chiang Mai, may your beautiful city and your welcoming people be blessed. We have learned a lot, things that people learn in a lifetime we have learnt in seven days.

Now we go back to our hometowns, with open minds and opened hearts.

Mapping Migrants

Written by: Shafira Sahara.

The one of the paradoxes of the era of globalization always has to do with borders: the lines that separate states are fading, while at the same time every state tries to strengthen their border protection. This phenomenon introduces migrant workers as one of the priorities of every state, from undocumented workers to the problem of unemployment rate.

The area surrounding MAP is lush with fruit trees and other greenery

As a country that borders the unstable state of Myanmar, Thailand faces these problems on a regular basis. The lack a proper local political system and the close proximity bring a hurl of migrant workers to the state, mostly from Myanmar, Cambodia and Laos. Their statuses as an illegal workers pull them away from any kind of protection from the state. Cases of violence are increasing, but nothing can be done. The state does not deem them visible.

In 2003, the government of Thailand and Myanmar signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to legalize the flow of migrants. It will take five years to set up a properly agreed-upon system, but the framework of a system can already be seen. However, at the same time the number of cases of discrimination against migrant workers still keeps on increasing; the system is new, and the discrimination is ongoing. A solution is still yet to be found.

The new system offers the chance for migrant workers to obtain temporary work permit to be a legal worker in Thailand. However, Jackie Pollock, the founder of MAP (Migrant Assistance Programme) believes that the system is still very much flawed, "the cost of obtaining work permit is very high--equal to six months of salary, actually. And the status is very temporary. Very," Pollock said.

Ms. Pollock set up MAP after years of working in Thailand

MAP is a Non-Governmental Organization aimed to protect the Burmese workers in Thailand. It was established in 1996, a time when migrant workers were not recognized. The organization provides materials about migrants, as well as provides emergency housing for the workers.

Asked about the experience of fighting for migrant workers, Pollock states that it has many challenges and the process moves slowly. One of the main issues that MAP tackles is violence against women. The organization offer trainings for women, including one that talks about the nature of the Thai law. However, there are still a very small number of women taking their cases into legal support and the knowledge is still very limited.

"At the very least," Pollock said, "women now realize that they have a supporting community."

Labour Rights is another main issue that MAP is grappling with. Pollock states that in many cases, migrant workers would obtain merely 10% to 20% of what they are financially accounted for. Nowadays, the cases are getting more complicated. The employer would either keep the workers' documents or declare bankruptcy in order to get away from their legal obligation.

"You have to be a lot smarter nowadays. Things are not as simple as before." Pollock said.

Some issues discussed in the session were shocking and controversial

The working permit process, just newly announced, is a slow one. There are approximately one million workers still in the process of getting the permit, and another 2 million not obtaining it. The working permit itself is provided for no longer than two years. The new status on the system poses a challenge for everyone. The government is still learning it, the workers are still semi-invisible, and the violence cases still exist.

It seems that the change is moving slowly in every aspect of the process.

As a former activist of a women's rights organization called Empower, Jackie Pollock emphasized on the fact that the government does not recognize domestic workers as 'workers'. Their status is invisible in the law, as if law is only applicable in the public world outside the homes.

"But then again," she added, "most part of the world does not recognize them. This is a global issue."

Muay Thai in Chiang Mai

It was a normal night in Chiang Mai: the wind blowing softly, the sky starless, and the occasional sound of the Tuk Tuk speeding on the street. Yet, who knew only one step could make a difference in atmosphere? One step into a place labelled ‘Thaphae’, and the difference in atmosphere was astounding. You could taste the excitement, the suspense, and the impatience exhaling from hundreds of mouths that sat around a ring. One step, the air was hot and no speeding Tuk Tuk heard. I held my breath in repressed exhilaration. The exhibition was starting soon. When the Pi Muay music started playing, I couldn’t help but smile widely. Muay Thai, it is.

Muay Thai, or Thai kickboxing, is a type of martial arts originating from Thailand. The name itself essentially means ‘the art of eight limbs’, simply called so because the sport uses not just a pair of fists and feet, but also elbows and knees. The match is uniquely accompanied with Thai music, played from Thai instruments. The music was played during the ritual of giving thanks to the old teacher and it keeps on playing throughout the matches.

 The ritual of praying and blessing the Muay Thai ring before the match

A bunch of my friends and I screamed, cringed, and squealed for two hours of a seven-match exhibition. We and a horde of other tourists could not keep our eyes away from the ring. The music turned out to be a clever factor as its tempo increased when the two fighters were in a series of locks and kicks, producing with it the sense of thrill that usually is found in watching scripted plays and movies; the movements of the boxers, with the addition of genuine Thai tunes, looked more similar to a dance rather than a brutal fight.

The height of the exhibition, though, was the ‘inter fights’—or the fights between a Thai fighter and a non-Thai fighter, latter usually being European or American. These fights illustrate how globalized the martial arts has become. These foreign fighters come to Thailand for the purpose of training or fighting, which is unlike others who come to Thailand for holiday and entertainment purposes.

Chamal, a fighter from Switzerland, claimed that the fight was his fourth fight, and it was his second time visiting Chiang Mai for the purpose of fighting. Pity, though, that he experienced his first defeat to Thailand’s Baibodh Au.rombodh that night. “When you have trained for two-and-a-half years, and you love the excitement, you just have to prove your skill and not let it be wasted,” he said between the flows of blood from his nose.

 Travellers watching in shock and awe

On the other hand, Annoud, a Belgian fighter, has good times in store. It was his first time fighting, after only five months of training—three in which was in Australian and the other two in Thailand. He was faced with Thailand’s own Hamraj Sithprabaht, who he knocked out after three rounds.

“When I got on that stage, hearing people calling my name and screams, it gives me confidence. I did not feel anything. I feel a rush, a thrill. And the music helps me as well. It’s different, you know, when you fight with music on, rather than just a crowd cheering.” Annoud explained.

The love for Muay Thai, it seems, has really spread around the world. The basic moves are taught in many gyms; there are classes and courses in most countries. There are Muay Thai tournaments outside Thailand. These inter fights frame how local culture can be global, vastly distinct but with similar styles to other forms of martial arts at the same time.

So this begs the question, why fight in Thailand when they can do it anywhere else in the world?

“This is the source of the fight. I have gone through boxing and kickboxing when I was younger, but Muay Thai is different. And I feel like the only way to actually learn this is to come to Thailand, and see it for myself,” Chamal answered.

“Yes, I have to go back to Belgium, because I am only 20 years old and I still have to study. But I assure you, this is not the last time. I want to feel the adrenalin again.” Annoud added.

 Fira excitedly interviewing Annoud after his first victory

Muay Thai is not just a sport. People come to Thailand to learn to fight, and some come as curious tourists of the martial arts. The Thai might feel that the sport is a part of the lives that the ability to knee and elbow are in their veins. The foreign fighters might feel that the sport is an exotic form of martial arts. But in any way, it cannot be denied that Muay Thai is a culture as much as it is a sport.

Profile: Shafira Sahara

Aloha, fellow human beings!

FIRA here. My name can mean lots and lots of things, such as Figuratively Rastafarian or Fictional Rabbi. Whatever you want to call me is okay, as long as you stay away from spelling my name with a V (as in Vira, not Fira).

So... about me. I hate being a student majoring in the bizarre world of International Studies and Writing. I don't sleep much. I am on a strict diet. I love to party all night long... yes, people I am a party animal. I spend three hours every morning looking at a reflection of myself. I never skip class, and I have never pulled a one-nighter for my assignments. And I am not at all excited to spend time in Chiang Mai. Boooriiiinggg.

Yeah... I guess that's it.

Oh, and one more thing: the description above are what I am not. So do the math.

Cheers and free beers!